Oban, United Kingdom

Our campsite in Glencoe is in the most perfect setting on Loch Linnhe. The weather is playing games with us – from torrential storms to brilliant sunshine all in the matter of an hour. Then rain, then sunshine. We actually had to buy an umbrella in Luss, a real little touristy town on Loch Lomond. Of course two large men under a normal sized umbrella trying to keep dry could be tricky…. Last night we celebrated my graduation which, a bit like my 50th, is like an Indian wedding celebration – it doesn’t stop! Any excuse to have good food. The very friendly man at the campsite recommends Laroche, a pub close by. We are bowled over – a real pub in every sense of the word: television screens everywhere, jam packed with a crowd wanting to see the Wales/Belgium football game, noisy, with the most extensive menu! We settle for a bottle of Chilean Merlot (having found that these are really good) with Victor choosing Haggis as a starter and skate wings as a main course, both dishes which he has never eaten before. I play it safe with a duck salad and Scottish salmon with glass noodles, ginger and soy sauce. A five star meal – delicious mixture of tastes and textures and beautifully presented. For dessert Victor orders a banana bavarois and I order the cheese platter. Again both choices are superbly executed – a varied selection of cheeses at room temperature, from a hard, sharp to gooey, oozy, smelly. With crumbly oatmeal biscuits and sweet grapes and soury dried apricots. Of course by this time we had our second bottle of red. Well, that degree needed a lot of celebrating! This morning we wake up to driving rain. The sound of the rain on the roof of the campervan is magic, reminding me of my childhood days of rain on a tin roof in my Grandmother’s home in Knysna. We have now figured out the heating (which works with gas) and a way to keep the light out, so we sleep until just after six. Victor is on breakfast duty – natural, unsmoked bacon (which means the disgusting smokey chemical was not added), free range eggs and raisin bread lightly fried in the bacon pan. Strong cheddar melting on perfectly poached eggs (Victor not only makes the best tea in the world, he also does the most beautiful poached eggs). And fresh orange juice with bits. (It must have bits). As the waistlines expand, we are ready for another day of exploring. Our first port of call is Fort William, with the hope of getting tickets for the Jacobite steamtrain to Malaig. The lady at the tourist information tells us in a very put out tone with matching facial disapproval that “they have decided not to let us sell the tickets for them”. So go stand in the queue and hope for the best. We also cannot book online and decide to try on our way back again. Fort William seems to be hub for the sporty types – spandex, bicycles, walkers, more bicycles and lots more spandex. It is still pouring with rain. Our next stop is at Apprin near the remains of the Castle Stalker. Freshly baked scones (mine with dried fruit), thick cream and apricot jam makes for a nice little teatime snack preparing us for the road to Oban. I was in Oban in the late 80’s and had forgotten how attractive the village is, and how overrun by tourists. We book our trip on the ferry to Mull and across to Skye – the first available space is at 18h20. A gentle day in Oban. We decide to buy food for the evening, which ends up being another few bags of delicacies. Amongst others six thick Scottish lamb loin chops. We buy a little disposable braai just for fun. If the rain stops long enough we might have a braai on Skye. Or Mull. And a whole bag of the bright yellow, buttery baby potatoes (or new potatoes as they are called here). And some coleslaw. And a few other little titbits. I am loving this holiday. A real childhood fantasy having a campervan and being able to have your house for the night right there when you need it. Want a little nap? Just jump in the back. Need a pee? It is right there. And snacks – just reach to the back and open the fridge. So now we are sitting in the hotel overlooking the harbour, having a beer and waiting for our ferry. Tonight is Mull.