<![CDATA[

Vilanova de Arousa, Spain

For no rhyme or reason I wake up at 02h35. For once I have nothing to blame for this. The Albergue is dead quiet, cosy and warm, the mattress hard, the blanket soft. And yet, I am wide awake. Eventually I turn to Debussy, who manages to help me back to sleep. I wake up at 08h00, which is actually 09h00 because the clocks changed in the night. Maybe this was what woke me….

I am too early for the convent and the cafe. So I end up sitting on the stoep of the cafe where I had supper last night to use their wifi. The owner of this cafe is truly a sweet man – last night he offered me the most delicious Tarte Santiago and some other pastry “on the house” – I forgave him instantly for the terrible red wine. It is chilly outside, but a clear, blue skied day. Exactly at 09h00 the lady who first helped me with the Albergue yesterday opens the restaurant. We are like close friends now – I get a strong coffee with just a dash of hot milk, and two little cakes that are actually again delicious. Breakfast. I watch as one after the other customer comes in – she knows every individuals morning ritual – cortada, large black, small white. A true sense of community as I also witnessed last night as parents were having their meals and all the kids were playing in and out of the restaurant. I am very aware of how well behaved the kids are…

The minute I leave the village, the trail starts along the river, known as the trail of stone and water. And it is clear why – there are 33 stone mills built along this stretch of river, undoubtedly the most beautiful part of the caminho thus far. For 8,5 kms, the walk follows the river from mill to mill in different stages of disrepair. It seems incomprehensible that these mills were built, never mind used in days gone by. There are also saw mills that were powered by the river. (The one downside is that it is obviously a very popular route, and on a Sunday the entire world is out there, and way too many bloody mountain bikes, who come speeding along like lunatics!)

What is interesting is how the mind can take its own journey at times. Today, I really battled to find that stillness, in spite of the most incredibly surroundings. Whatever I tried, my mind had a mind of its own, wandering off to the most stupid and at times infuriating places. Nothing I could do, could keep it at bay. I know that “whatever you resist, persists”, but this was just ridiculous. Am I too tired perhaps? I am a great believer in the fact that the mind is influenced by the surroundings, but today, this mind was not going to be influenced by anything. Eventually I decided to just let it be. And started singing the song “let it be..”. If you can’t beat it, join it?

As soon as I left this incredible mountain stone water walk, the road started winding through the by now normal small village, eucalyptus forest, tar road, dirt road. I realised that yesterday took its toll – my body was taking strain. I stopped, did some stretching, spent some time stretched out on my back. Eventually I had to take a pain killer, my back was not letting up. The road was now very quiet again – Sunday afternoon, everyone having an extended siesta, only the dogs are out vigilently guarding against who knows what. About 6 km outside Vilanova de Arousa (my destination for today) I stopped at a cafe, thought I might need food (and beer). It was the usual jostle between my english and their spanish, until I figured out that they served a choice of two dishes with a beer. For 1.50 Euro. As they did not have wifi, I could not consult google translate. So I asked the very friendly young man to show me what he has to offer (FOOD that is!). He came out with two dishes, the one I figured out was braised cow’s ears. No thank you. The other had chickpeas and looked like another part of the cow. I chose that one. As soon as I started eating, I realised that it was curried……and that it was possibly tripe. I left the odd looking pieces and settled for the chick peas and the sauce which soaked well into the bread. All this happened with the TV on top volume with the Shell Malaysian Grand Prix finals – from the sublime to the ridiculous. As I left, I noticed a garage shop, made a beeline and bought a KitKat, Twix and Mars Bar which I finished in record time to get the idea of tripe out of my head (and mouth).

The last ten kilometers is torture. No matter what I try, my body is complaining. And then suddenly, I am on the estuary! The tranquil waters gently lapping the coast, and within a few minutes I reach the Albergue. Vilanova de Arousa is on yet another one of the estuaries, deep inland crevices that actually look more like lakes or lagoons. And I would have to lie if I said that it was at all attractive – a stunning setting ruined by holiday parks, caravan parks and blocks of hugely unattractive flats. I cannot believe that a setting like this could be so ruined. The Albergue is on top of a restaurant – the owner and his family are obviously enjoying the peace and quiet after the Sunday rush. They are extremely friendly and phone the keeper of the keys of the Albergue, I settle for a beer, and with it is served the most wonderful fresh mussels, sourdough bread and some really really good frittata! Just what a broken pilgrim needs!

The keeper of the keys of the Albergue arrives – more dreary and depressing I cannot image a place to be. Yet – the mattress is firm, the blankets soft, and no doubt I will be listening to Debussy again at 02h00 this morning. AND – there is no boat service to Padron tomorrow. I will take the train.

]]>